The people of the Indonesian island combat the impact of climate change on livelihoods by taking up weaving and exporting traditional textiles.
Sumba, located in Indonesia’s severely climate-sensitive regions and considered an ecological forefront for desertification, is a fragile ecosystem whose heart beats to the rhythm of three things: the availability of water for crops, animals, and people; the millennia-old textile-making tradition; and the ancient Marapu belief. The island’s textiles mirror its arid climate and are an extension and symbol of its well-being. The fabric, purely made of natural substances found on the island, such as cotton, herbs, and wood, reflects the island’s challenging environmental conditions, making its people more resourceful and encouraging sustainability.
Climate change and COVID-19 have dealt a severe blow to livelihoods on the island, causing irreversible losses and unprecedented economic strain. As harvests declined, the local population was forced to find alternative means of support. Traditionally, during the rainy season, the Sumbanese would work in the fields, and during the dry season, they would stay home to weave tenun ikat (woven textile) for sale at markets or to keep as heirlooms. However, the warming climate has shortened the rainy season, disrupting cereal growth and threatening the survival of livestock.
Also Read | Manipur on the boil again
The eastern part of Sumba has always faced water scarcity, and the possibility of drought is a constant threat. The past 10 years have seen a decrease in agricultural and livestock activities, forcing people out of the island. In 2020, as part of efforts of the local government and the population to fight water scarcity, the focus turned to the production and export of traditional textiles.
The arid climate does not hamper the production of local textiles because the raw materials used for the weaving grow well in dry weather. This textile is valued not only for its beauty and robustness but also for the environment-friendly colours that are used for it.
Also Read | Kashmir: The changing face of Gurez Valley
Traditionally, only aged women were allowed to weave. But now young women and men are permitted too, enabling the intertwining of ancient Marapu belief and contemporary creativity.
This activity has brought together a community of weavers in Melolo, in eastern Sumba, a small cradle of peace situated in a shy but arid valley located inland close to the coast. The weavers are part of an empowering network that allows them to export their craft and make the community thrive.
The people of the island have turned this revival into a dynamic pursuit that has given them an opportunity to export their traditional craft. This has boosted economic growth. The textile, once a tradition that stayed inside the community, is now exported across Europe, Asia, and North America and serves as a platform to share Sumba’s cultural narrative. The impact of ever-diminishing harvests is now offset by the earnings generated by textile exports. Threads woven with age-old techniques now carry not only the weight of tradition but also the promise of a warm future as the youth weave narratives that bridge the gap between the past and the present.
Boris R. Thebia, a self-taught documentary photographer and photojournalist from French Guiana, captures stories of marginalised communities. Based in Montreal and Bali, his work explores various themes of identity, migration, and cultural preservation.
COMMents
SHARE