Sumba: Weaving together past and present

The people of the Indonesian island combat the impact of climate change on livelihoods by taking up weaving and exporting traditional textiles.

The Indonesian island of Sumba can often be defined by its endless limestone hills and an arid soil where little vegetation can grow. As the climate grows warmer, water is getting increasingly scarce.   | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Sumba, located in Indonesia’s severely climate-sensitive regions and considered an ecological forefront for desertification, is a fragile ecosystem whose heart beats to the rhythm of three things: the availability of water for crops, animals, and people; the millennia-old textile-making tradition; and the ancient Marapu belief. The island’s textiles mirror its arid climate and are an extension and symbol of its well-being. The fabric, purely made of natural substances found on the island, such as cotton, herbs, and wood, reflects the island’s challenging environmental conditions, making its people more resourceful and encouraging sustainability.

Tenun ikat Sumba (Sumbanese woven fabric) is made from cotton naturally growing on the island. Each piece is meticulously crafted. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

In the village of Prai Ijing, located at Melolo in eastern Sumba, Hana and her daughter weave every day, using age-old tools and techniques. Hana will pass her knowledge and skills to her daughter, ensuring the continuity of Sumba’s weaving tradition for generations to come.    | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Each length of fabric can take up to a year to make. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The lively colours used for Sumba’s traditional textiles are derived from natural ingredients found across the island. The Indigofera tinctoria herb, for example, provides the blue dye.   | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Climate change and COVID-19 have dealt a severe blow to livelihoods on the island, causing irreversible losses and unprecedented economic strain. As harvests declined, the local population was forced to find alternative means of support. Traditionally, during the rainy season, the Sumbanese would work in the fields, and during the dry season, they would stay home to weave tenun ikat (woven textile) for sale at markets or to keep as heirlooms. However, the warming climate has shortened the rainy season, disrupting cereal growth and threatening the survival of livestock.

Work in progress at the community weaving house at Praikamaru. It is a place where women dedicated to the tradition of weaving come together to share skills and stories.   | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The communal weaving house. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Audi, one of the children who play a vital role in the creation of Sumbanese textiles. After school, they often help older women in weaving houses, assisting them with the making of dye, fetching tools and water, and using the time to learn the craft. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Traditional Sumbanese textiles are used in ceremonies such as the Penuburan (funeral). | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The eastern part of Sumba has always faced water scarcity, and the possibility of drought is a constant threat. The past 10 years have seen a decrease in agricultural and livestock activities, forcing people out of the island. In 2020, as part of efforts of the local government and the population to fight water scarcity, the focus turned to the production and export of traditional textiles.

Rambu Ana, who acts as a conduit for exporting Sumba’s rich heritage abroad through its famed textile. Acting as an intermediary, she promotes cross-cultural understanding and appreciation, showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship of Sumba’s weavers on the global stage.   | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Asti, one of the children who helps in weaving, holding a younger child, Fani. The children are dressed in traditional textiles. When she is not helping to weave, Asti tends to younger children whose parents are engaged in weaving. Sumbanese culture is all about interconnectedness and inter-reliance between people.  | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

A piece of Sumbanese woven fabric. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Sumbanese fabrics being sold in a market. The lengthy process of production makes it an expensive product. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The arid climate does not hamper the production of local textiles because the raw materials used for the weaving grow well in dry weather. This textile is valued not only for its beauty and robustness but also for the environment-friendly colours that are used for it.

Children helping out at the community weaving centre. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Umbu Nadwa poses for a photo while taping together individual threads. Historically reserved for women, the process of making Sumbanese fabric has been extended to men. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The vibrant colours and rich designs make Sumbanese fabrics much sought after globally. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

A weaver at work. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

Traditionally, only aged women were allowed to weave. But now young women and men are permitted too, enabling the intertwining of ancient Marapu belief and contemporary creativity.

This activity has brought together a community of weavers in Melolo, in eastern Sumba, a small cradle of peace situated in a shy but arid valley located inland close to the coast. The weavers are part of an empowering network that allows them to export their craft and make the community thrive.

The cotton used for traditional Sumbanese textile grows on the island. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The picturesque Praikamaru village in Melolo, eastern Sumba. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The yarn that is used for weaving Sumbanese fabric. | Photo Credit: Boris R-Thebia

The people of the island have turned this revival into a dynamic pursuit that has given them an opportunity to export their traditional craft. This has boosted economic growth. The textile, once a tradition that stayed inside the community, is now exported across Europe, Asia, and North America and serves as a platform to share Sumba’s cultural narrative. The impact of ever-diminishing harvests is now offset by the earnings generated by textile exports. Threads woven with age-old techniques now carry not only the weight of tradition but also the promise of a warm future as the youth weave narratives that bridge the gap between the past and the present.

Boris R. Thebia, a self-taught documentary photographer and photojournalist from French Guiana, captures stories of marginalised communities. Based in Montreal and Bali, his work explores various themes of identity, migration, and cultural preservation.