Kashmir: The changing face of Gurez Valley

This once-pristine valley near the LoC has been marred by tourism.

A view of Habba Khatoon Peak from Dawar in Gurez Valley. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

Gurez Valley is located about 123 km north of Srinagar, surrounded by thick forests and mountains. The Kishanganga River with its springs and streams course through the valley. Situated close to the Line of Control (LoC), it is cut off from the rest of the Kashmir Valley for the whole winter period from October onwards.

A truck traverses the hilly terrain at Razdan Pass, 11,624 ft above sea level. This vital link between Kashmir Valley and Ladakh is typically snowbound from October to April. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

A log hut nestled in Achoora village, with the last village of India, Churwan, lying beyond it. The Line of Control divides this scenic valley, separating the Dards from their Indo-Aryan counterparts in Pakistan. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

The inhabitants of Gurez are called Dards and they speak the unique Shina language. In the summers, the men and women of the region go up the mountains to collect firewood for the harsh winter months ahead. During winter, the Gurez Valley receives up to 20 feet of snowfall and remains isolated from the rest of the Kashmir Valley for about six months.

Young girls from the Dard tribal community sit outside their traditional log home in Tulail village, Gurez. As one of the most ancient Dard-Shina tribes, they preserve their Shia language and culture, echoing the voices of their ancestors from Gilgit, Chilas, and Skardu. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

A newly constructed concrete building stands in an open field at Dawar, Gurez Valley, a stark contrast to the region’s traditional wooden houses. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

I first came to Gurez about four years ago. It was all about wooden houses, clean rivers, and spaces unaffected by human activity. But on my recent visit, many changes were evident: the footprints of tourism and commercialisation are evident in the valley.

A campsite in Badwan along the Kishanganga River, once a vital freshwater source for the Dard community, now suffers from pollution due to discarded plastic bottles. This contamination threatens the health of locals who still depend on this water for drinking. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

Trash and plastic waste mar a campsite in Badwan, Gurez, along the once-pristine Kishanganga River. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

Concrete structures abound and wooden houses are no longer a common sight in Gurez. On one hand, the increased rush of tourists has increased employment but on the other hand, it has greatly impacted the environment and culture of the valley.

Dead pine trees along the route to Gurez Valley, where climate change is accelerating ecological degradation. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

A pine tree root shaped like a foot lies in the Kishanganga River, revealing the consequences of deforestation in Gurez Valley. Once a lush habitat for wildlife and a cultural haven for the Dard tribe, the region now faces severe environmental degradation. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

This year a record number of more than 1,00,000 tourists visited the valley. Kishanganga River has been polluted by waste dumped by visitors on the banks and near camping sites.

Razor wire installed by the Indian military forces in Tulail village, Gurez, along the LoC in northern Kashmir. The Dard-Shins of Gurez, whose ancestry can be traced back to Gilgit in Pakistan, face increased militarization of their region. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

A man wearing a traditional Kashmiri pheran walks through Tulail village in Gurez. The people of Gurez are the Dard-Shins, whose ancestry can be traced back to Gilgit in Pakistan. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass

Adil Abass is an independent photographer based in Srinagar, Kashmir.