Coloured with hope

Jai jai mata! Santhoshi Mata! Jai jai mata! Santhoshi Mata!

A wedding hall along the Puducherry-Cuddalore highway rang with these chants on a chilly December evening. A large group of elegantly dressed transwomen had gathered to witness the initiation ceremony, also called paal ootrum sadangu (sacred milk ceremony), of 13 young transgender women who had recently completed their gender affirmation surgery.

The initiation ritual begins with a veiling of the face. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

The initiation begins. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

I was invited to photograph this rite of passage by Sheetal Nayak, the president of Sahodaran Community Oriented Health Development Society (SCOHD), Puducherry. According to Sheetal, this event is similar to the manjal neeraattu vizha (the turmeric bath) conducted for adolescent girls after menarche in Tamil Nadu, and is seen as a joyous celebration of solidarity and adulthood. It is usually preceded by an intense 45-day fast and abstinence during which prayers are offered to Santhoshi Mata, the goddess of happiness.

Sheetal Nayak leads the celebrations with a shower of money. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

The currency notes “fluttered” to ward off the evil eye are later gathered up. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

Around 10 in the evening, senior Nayaks from the transgender community began to arrive from different regions of Tamil Nadu and neighbouring States. As they settled down, Sheetal began to “flutter” rupee notes to ward off the evil eye. The celebrations, which included rituals such as mehendi and nalangu apart from song and dance, continued well into the wee hours of the next morning.

It is a long night of song and dance and celebration. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

Setting out to the seashore early the next morning. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

Around 4 am, the 13 transwomen, their faces covered and carrying pots of milk on their heads, were escorted by senior members of the community to the nearest seashore at Veerampattinam, where an arati was performed and sanctified seawater poured over them.

The arati at the Veerampattinam seashore. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

Sanctified by seawater. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

After this, they returned to the wedding hall and “revealed” themselves to Goddess Santhoshi Mata, before turning to the guests. They then changed into new silk sarees and jewellery before posing for a group portrait.

“Revealing” themselves to the goddess. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

Turning to face their favourite guest in attendance. | Photo Credit: Pattabi Raman

The rite, often organised by senior transpersons in a region, is an important marker in their lives. Sheetal says: “At present, I organise it in Puducherry. We also strive for equality and the empowerment of transgender people, and we will always uphold these ideals.”

Pattabi Raman is a biologist-turned-photojournalist based in Puducherry.