Madhubani: Bihar’s neglected cultural hub seeks change

Struggling with political apathy and slow development, Madhubani seeks recognition and better infrastructure, a sentiment reflected in the election.

Mithila paintings on the coaches of the Darbhanga-bound Sampark Kranti Express. | Photo Credit: SUSHIL KUMAR VERMA

Rajendra Kumar, 67, a shopkeeper in the heart of Madhubani (Bihar), in Jaldhar Chowk, feels a sense of betrayal when he sees the once-regal places and forts in his hometown reduced to mute backdrops for high-octave election campaigns.

Madhubani, steeped in Mithila heritage, now grapples with aspirations for development akin to its neighbouring town, Darbhanga. The district is predominantly rural and has a significant presence of Maithil Brahmins, other upper castes, as well as Yadavs, Kurmis, and Muslims. The area faces challenges typical to rural Bihar, including limited access to education and healthcare.

Darbhanga and Madhubani are worlds apart in terms of development. While Darbhanga has seen infrastructure development, Madhubani remains disconnected. The Madhubani Lok Sabha seat will go to polls on May, 20.

Twin towns

Behind the electoral fervour lies palpable neglect and apathy towards Madhubani’s potential. Following the death of the last king, Maharaja Kameshwar Singh, in 1962, the rich legacy slipped into decay and the twin towns of Darbhanga and Madhubani never found a place on the tourism map.

Sporting a red teeka on his forehead, and wearing a sacred thread on his wrist, Gagan Kumar Jha, 45, of Umgaon village, says: “We will vote for the BJP. But we are tired of the nepotism that goes on here. The current BJP candidate is one because he is the son of a former minister [Hukumdev Narayan Yadav], and is not a very popular figure locally. The votes he gets here will be because of Prime Minister Narendra Modi.”

Jha is not a beneficiary of any of BJP’s schemes, but vouches for them, specifically Ayushman Bharat cards and the free ration scheme. He is looking for fresh faces in politics and is annoyed that money power determines who gets the tickets. But the Modi factor seems to trump everything else for Jha. Manish Kumar Singh, a resident of Pandol village, believes the BJP is bringing back the “lost glory” of Hindus.

Nazre Alam, the national president of the All India Muslim Bedari Karwan, based in Darbhanga, attributes the rise of Hindutva politics in Madhubani to the absence of constructive issue-based politics, highlighting the region’s educational and economic disparities. “Madhubani is way more backward than Darbhanga. Many students are forced to shift to Darbhanga for their studies, and the youth too have to go out in search of jobs and opportunities. Hindutva politics is dominant there,” he said.

The incumbent MP and BJP candidate, Ashok Kumar Yadav, best known as the son of Hukmdev Narayan Yadav, faces competition from the Rashtriya Janata Dal (RJD) and Congress candidates. The election is anticipated to be keenly contested, reflecting broader political dynamics within Bihar and the country. Shekhar Chandra Mishra, president of Brahmin Mahasabha, an informal organisation in Saurath village, said his family used to support the Congress. “Because no representation was given to us, the forward castes’ devotion to the Congress started to wane,” he told Frontline. “Yadavs are considered to be the RJD’s primary vote bank but the BJP candidate is also from this community. So, most of the Yadav votes are bound to go to the BJP, as was seen in the last election.”

Discussing Hindutva

Among the Maithil Brahmins of Madhubani, the support for Modi is overwhelming. The Ram temple, the Citizenship (Amendment) Act, the abrogation of Article 370 in Kashmir, are all hits. Gaurav Mishra, who lives in Saurath village, a village dominated by Maithil Brahmins, is handling RJD’s prachar here and in nearby villages. For this, he said, he is often derided by others in his community, of Maithil Brahmins. “The BJP has triggered an environment of hate. When I sit with the youth, from my own community, I see that Hindutva has become one of the main themes of discussion.”

Meanwhile, Ashraf Ali Fatmi of the RJD, often labelled an ‘outsider’ due to his roots in Darbhanga, is making a strong case for his candidacy in Madhubani. Donning the green muretha, a headscarf traditional to the Mithila region, Fatmi promises to elevate Madhubani to the same level of development as Darbhanga.

Interconnected Mithilanchal

Fatmi, who has contested seven elections in Darbhanga, is running in Madhubani for the first time. He emphasises the interconnectedness of the Mithilanchal region, highlighting the shared lifestyle, cuisine, and culture. “Rehna, khana, culture, sab ek jaisa hai,” (the way of life, food, culture, are all similar),” he said. Fatmi, in his speeches, has recounted his significant achievements in Darbhanga, which he said can be replicated in Madhubani, including the introduction of a major railway line, a new train, a school and a passport receiving office.

In his speeches, Fatmi frequently invokes the legacy of Darbhanga Maharaj and critiques Modi on various issues, including black money, the Ganga cleaning project, inflation, the China border conflict, smart cities, and the Make in India initiative. “Mandir mein statue bhi made-in-China aate hain” (Even in our temples, the idols are made-in -China)“ he said.

Whether Madhubani can overcome its historical neglect and emerge as a beacon of progress remains to be seen, but one thing is clear: the voices of its people, from shopkeepers to village heads, are demanding a brighter future.