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Himachal Pradesh

Spiti beckons

Print edition : Dec 25, 2015 T+T-
2. The stark trans-Himalayan landscape, shortly after the Sutlej enters India at Shipki.

2. The stark trans-Himalayan landscape, shortly after the Sutlej enters India at Shipki.

3. The Spiti river winds down from the valley,  before its confluence with the Sutlej

3. The Spiti river winds down from the valley, before its confluence with the Sutlej

11. The striking Dhankar village and monastery, overlooking the confluence of the Pin and the Spiti,  was not long   ago the seat of the ruler of Spiti. A seat of learning and home to precious relics, Dhankar, as also other monasteries in the region, were subjected to depredations, most recently by Dogra and Sikh armies in the 19th century.

11. The striking Dhankar village and monastery, overlooking the confluence of the Pin and the Spiti, was not long ago the seat of the ruler of Spiti. A seat of learning and home to precious relics, Dhankar, as also other monasteries in the region, were subjected to depredations, most recently by Dogra and Sikh armies in the 19th century.

12.  Rocky outcrops are silhouetted against the quiet autumn flow of the Spiti

12. Rocky outcrops are silhouetted against the quiet autumn flow of the Spiti

13. Spiti is a treasure trove for geologists. The layered rockfaces of  Spiti carry the memory of the millions of years since they were raised from the depths of the Tethys sea, recording “every geological age from the pre-Cambrian to the present in pristine formations”.

13. Spiti is a treasure trove for geologists. The layered rockfaces of Spiti carry the memory of the millions of years since they were raised from the depths of the Tethys sea, recording “every geological age from the pre-Cambrian to the present in pristine formations”.

10.  Between Tabo and Kaza, the Pin (left) comes in to join the Spiti, now in a wide valley. The track along the Pin would lead to the Pin-Parbati pass – and to Kullu on the Beas.

10. Between Tabo and Kaza, the Pin (left) comes in to join the Spiti, now in a wide valley. The track along the Pin would lead to the Pin-Parbati pass – and to Kullu on the Beas.

4. The Tabo monastery in Spiti is among the most revered in the Buddhist world. Built in the 10th century when Spiti was under the kingdom of Guge in Tibet, Tabo had been a great centre of learning. Described as Spiti’s pride, Tabo has one of the most significant art treasures in the Buddhist world, its vibrant frescoes likened to Ajanta. His Holiness the Dalai Lama has twice performed the Kalachakra ceremony at  Tabo (Here a view of the original monastery built of mud)

4. The Tabo monastery in Spiti is among the most revered in the Buddhist world. Built in the 10th century when Spiti was under the kingdom of Guge in Tibet, Tabo had been a great centre of learning. Described as Spiti’s pride, Tabo has one of the most significant art treasures in the Buddhist world, its vibrant frescoes likened to Ajanta. His Holiness the Dalai Lama has twice performed the Kalachakra ceremony at Tabo (Here a view of the original monastery built of mud)

5. Monks in front of chorten in the newly built monastery in Tabo

5. Monks in front of chorten in the newly built monastery in Tabo

19. Kibber village at over 14,000 feet till recently had the distinction of the highest post office in the world, now overtaken by a neighbouring village. As with Langja, the area has a variety of wildlife. Kibber is on the difficult trekking route to Ladakh, leading to Tso Muriri

19. Kibber village at over 14,000 feet till recently had the distinction of the highest post office in the world, now overtaken by a neighbouring village. As with Langja, the area has a variety of wildlife. Kibber is on the difficult trekking route to Ladakh, leading to Tso Muriri

18. A time for meditation at Key

18. A time for meditation at Key

14. At over 14,000 feet, Langja with a population of just over 100 is among the highest villages anywhere. High above the left bank of the Spiti, the area is also home to a variety of wild life, including the Himalayan ibex and the snow leopard. (Here, a roof top is stored with fodder for cattle for the coming winter and spring)

14. At over 14,000 feet, Langja with a population of just over 100 is among the highest villages anywhere. High above the left bank of the Spiti, the area is also home to a variety of wild life, including the Himalayan ibex and the snow leopard. (Here, a roof top is stored with fodder for cattle for the coming winter and spring)

8. The Gutor festival is not confined to monks and there are traditional group dances by men, women and chi   ldren. (Women from Tabo and nearby villages join in a dance.

8. The Gutor festival is not confined to monks and there are traditional group dances by men, women and chi ldren. (Women from Tabo and nearby villages join in a dance.

9. After the morning festivities, the monks retire to the main temple for prayers. Here, they emerge from their prayers as they proceed for the final act – the burning of the effigy of evil, as devotees bow and seek benediction.

9. After the morning festivities, the monks retire to the main temple for prayers. Here, they emerge from their prayers as they proceed for the final act – the burning of the effigy of evil, as devotees bow and seek benediction.

. The Gutor festival in autumn is the year’s highlight in the life of the monastery and nearby villages. Celebrated with great pageantry, the day long festivities aim at casting away evil spirits. (Here, monks engage in the traditional Cham dance in front of the monastery)

. The Gutor festival in autumn is the year’s highlight in the life of the monastery and nearby villages. Celebrated with great pageantry, the day long festivities aim at casting away evil spirits. (Here, monks engage in the traditional Cham dance in front of the monastery)

16. Key (Ki) monastery with its impressive background is the most widely known image of Spiti. Dating back to a century after Tabo, Key too has had its share of predators. Repository of murals and statues, it is an important place of pilgrimage and HH the Dalai Lama has performed the Kalachakra ceremony at Key

16. Key (Ki) monastery with its impressive background is the most widely known image of Spiti. Dating back to a century after Tabo, Key too has had its share of predators. Repository of murals and statues, it is an important place of pilgrimage and HH the Dalai Lama has performed the Kalachakra ceremony at Key

15. A massive statue of Buddha keeps watch over Langja

15. A massive statue of Buddha keeps watch over Langja

21.  A profusion of prayer flags and ‘katas’ tied to the chorten marks Kunzum la on a grey autumn morning. Kunzum marks the boundary between Spiti and Lahoul.

21. A profusion of prayer flags and ‘katas’ tied to the chorten marks Kunzum la on a grey autumn morning. Kunzum marks the boundary between Spiti and Lahoul.

17. A novice offers tea to visitors at Key monastery

17. A novice offers tea to visitors at Key monastery

Spiti in Himachal Pradesh is intimate and beautiful, and has a personal aura that entices visitors to return.

A LONG time ago, in 1961, I had meticulously planned a trek to Spiti. The planning was difficult, as Spiti, in Himachal Pradesh, was then a virtually unknown territory, rarely visited except by officials, with only an occasional pony trail or routes that existed largely on the map and translated on the ground as ice and snow, glaciers and boulders.

The only “guide” at that time was Justice G.D. Khosla’s Himalayan Circuit: A Journey in Inner Himalaya , based on his visit a few years earlier. Owing to family reasons I had to stay back, but my friends were able to use my research to cross into Spiti over the formidable Pin-Parbati Pass and return to Manali over the Kunzum and Rohtang passes. My long-awaited visit finally came about this autumn.

There are two approaches to Spiti by road. One is to drive from Manali to Kaza over the Rohtang and Kunzum passes, a distance of some 200 kilometres. The Internet can be misleading with regard to the time required, and travellers are best advised to add 25 per cent to what others may claim. We took nearly 11 hours on the journey (in the opposite direction).

The other approach is from Shimla: Shimla-Kalpa (240 km), Kalpa-Kaza (200 km). This is doable in two full days of driving. Of course, Tabo, 48 km short of Kaza, is a must stop for at least two days. In 1963, I had driven along the under-construction Hindustan-Tibet road some distance beyond Kalpa. More than half a century later, fair stretches of the road remain under repair and a challenge to vehicles and their passengers alike, as they had been earlier. This situation is presumably unavoidable because of falling rocks and the snow during winter.

As one drives along the Sutlej, lush green Kalpa with its range upon range of apple orchards and pine forests gives way soon to the starkness of the trans-Himalayas. The Sutlej can be disturbingly close at times, and at others far below at the bottom of the gorge. After Nako one enters the realm of the Spiti river and at Sumdo, Spiti itself.

The border check post at Sumdo is a stark reminder of continued restrictions on foreigners entering Spiti. They can do so only in pairs or multiples. This defies reason. If the concern is for national security, then less, surely, the better. If, as is more likely, it is for the security of the visitor, then it would make more sense to require that the foreign guest is accompanied by another person, either foreigner or Indian. Other formulations can be considered to meet legitimate concerns. Permits need to be obtained at Rekong Peo (below Kalpa), the district headquarters, and it was sad to see a young and enthusiastic Australian girl, keen to visit Spiti after many weeks in Kinnaur, being denied entry.

Spiti’s association with the rest of India is said to go back to the Mauryan empire, followed by the Kushans and the occasional overlordship of Ladakh and Kashmir. The period of its association with the Guge kingdom in western Tibet a millennium ago has left a lasting imprint on it. But through it all, Spiti and its people have retained their individuality.

Next door, Ladakh has a sweep and grandeur that overwhelms. The vast spaces of Ladakh, the Changtang, have a quality almost of merging with infinity. Spiti is more intimate, more beautiful in detail, with a personal aura that invites the visitor to return.