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THE 22-KILOMETRE TREK to Gangbal begins at Naranag. Here, walking uphill through a burnt forest above Naranag.-

A paradise in ferment

A trek to two mountain lakes in the Kashmir valley in troubled times.
TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROMESH BHATTACHARJI
THE NEW LOHIT bridge at Parasuram Kund, which provides access to Lohit district all through the year and is a reason for its new-found prosperity.-

Road to progress

A FEW years ago, Lohit district in eastern Arunachal Pradesh was one of the poorest and least populated places in India. For half a year it used to be
TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROMESH BHATTACHARJI
Ravaged by time, the sole minar in the Musallah complex is held up by wires. The complex houses a mosque, a college and Begum Gohar Shad's mausoleum.-

Historic Herat

Exploring the Afghan city's decaying glories.
ROMESH BHATTACHARJI,PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROMESH BHATTACHARJI
THE CHURCH OF Odzun and, to the left, two roughly hewn rectangular rock obelisks encased in huge blocks of stone. The structure is believed to be a gift an Indian king gave an Armenian general for his help.-

Indian imprint on Armenia

The remote village of Odzun reveals an Indian connection.
ROMESH BHATTACHARJI,PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROMESH BHATTACHARJI
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