A village near the LoC

A view of the road to Turtuk from Leh. Until 1971, the village was in Pakistani territory. Now Turtuk is the last village on the Indian side that civilians are allowed to visit after procuring an inner line permit.

The journey between Turtuk and Leh on a good day in summer, but such days are few.

The journey from Leh to Turtuk can be tedious and treacherous, but the breathtaking beauty of the landscape makes it a rewarding experience.

A panoramic view of the landscape around Turtuk.

There are no vehicles in Turtuk, and residents walk through the narrow lanes.

A child leaning out of a window. Turtuk has only one school.

Haji Mohammed Issu of Turtuk, who worked as a porter for the Pakistan Army and continued to do the same job for the Indian Army after 1971. His uncle and his cousins live across the Line of Control in Pakistani-held territory.

Mohammed Ali, aka Goba Ali, from Thang village with his parents in Fraono, across the LoC, in 2014. In 1971, Goba Ali, then a child of five, got separated from his parents. He was brought up by the Indian Army regiments based in Thang. This photograph is from his personal collection.

A young Haji Abdul Quadir (wearing glasses) along with soldiers of the Indian Army after "Operation Turtuk" in 1971. This photograph is from his personal collection.

A scanned copy of a note from 1972 appreciating the role of Rehmatulla, father of Haji Abdul Quadir and former numberdar (village head) of Tyakshi village, during “Operation Turtuk”. From Haji Abdul Quadir's personal collection.

The entrance to Tyakshi village. The check post is manned by the Indian Army. Currently the Maratha Light Infantry does this job.

A new guest house being constructed in Turtuk. With increasing numbers of tourists coming to the village, there is a demand for guest houses.

Donkeys are hired out to the Army in winter.

Magpies are a common sight in the village.

Yabgo Mohammed Khan Kacho, the "king" of Turtuk.

A view of the palace of Yabgo Mohammed Khan Kacho, the king of Turtuk.

A trophy of an ibex adorns the entrance of Yabgo Mohammed Khan Kacho's palace.

An eagle adorns the entrance of the palace.

The natural freezers of Turtuk. Here, yak cheese is stored for several years and is used during the long winter.

Jamia Masjid, the oldest mosque in Turtuk. While the main building has been rebuilt, the wooden minaret dates back to the sixteenth century.

The graveyard of Turtuk by the Shyok river.

The town of Leh as seen from the Royal Palace.

The bridge on the Shyok that connects the two parts of Turtuk.

A memorial to Sapper Satish Kumar who lost his life during the Kargil war. Turtuk saw a lot of bombardment during the Kargil war.

A pre-1971 Pakistani Army bunker that can still be seen outside Turtuk village.

The Royal Palace of Leh.

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A view of the road to Turtuk from Leh. Until 1971, the village was in Pakistani territory. Now Turtuk is the last village on the Indian side that civilians are allowed to visit after procuring an inner line permit.
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