Kotagiri: Beyond Ooty’s shadow, a Nilgiri gem awaits

The majestic mountains stand as a reminder of the importance of living in harmony with nature.

A great tit eats peanuts from a street food vendor’s spread on the Udhagamandalam-Kotagiri road. | Photo Credit: SATHYAMOORTHY M

Kotagiri is a hill station close to Udhagamandalam (popularly called Ooty) in Tamil Nadu. Having heard friends sing its praises, we decided to visit it and made reservations at a homestay. Then, one fine morning, we set off from Bengaluru for this quaint town in the Nilgiris.

We stopped for breakfast at Kengeri on the outskirts of Bengaluru, where we had the mandatory thatte idli, medu vada, and upma with steaming hot filter coffee. Thereafter, we hit the Bengaluru-Mysuru expressway, which was a delight to drive on, and soon reached Mysuru.

Herds of deer in Bandipur National Park. | Photo Credit: SRIRAM MA

The journey got interesting after this. Driving through Bandipur National Park, we saw herds of spotted deer on either side of the road. It was a heavenly sight!

Incredible views

Onwards, as we started navigating the hairpin bends from Masinagudi to Udhagamandalam, layers of mist rolled in and it became colder. We stopped for tea at one of the several viewpoints on the way. The hotel-owner announced that the tea was from local plantations and talked us into buying a few packets.

We soon reached Kotagiri and checked into our homestay, which was a beautiful bungalow with a nice driveway, spacious rooms, antique furniture, and an incredible view of the town and tea plantations. In the evening, we visited the local market, where we bought chocolates.

A night view of Mettupalayam, Karamadai and beyond from the Kotagiri-Mettupalayam road. | Photo Credit: SATHYAMOORTHY M

Next day, after a sumptuous breakfast, which included rava kichdi (the local version of the Bengaluru upma, which is drier), masala dosa, and fruits, we set off for Coonoor. On the way, we visited Sim’s Park, Dolphin’s Nose, and Lamb’s Rock, which are popular tourist spots. The Nilgiri hills are breathtaking, with thick forests, waterfalls, and lakes. At Wellington Lake in Coonoor, we were delighted to see a flock of white ducks walking in single file, almost with military precision. The discipline of the ducks was endearing.

Misty roads of Udhagamandalam in winter. | Photo Credit: SATHYAMOORTHY M

We returned to Kotagiri late in the evening and settled down to a game of cards, with spirited discussions over drinks and assorted hot bajjis. This was followed by boisterous singing by all for antakshari, in which I too joined. Just as I was peaking (or so I thought), the elderly couple staying in the next room knocked gently on our door to ask what the wailing was all about and if someone had passed away!

We went for a walk in the plantations early next morning. The tea leaves sparkled with dew and the mist hung like a curtain above our heads. After a heavy breakfast of pooris, idlis, vadas, and the quintessential omelette, we set off for Udhagamandalam, which is about 20 kilometres from Kotagiri.

Pykara Lake near Udhagamandalam. | Photo Credit: SATHYAMOORTHY M

After checking out the famous Botanical Garden and the Ooty lake, we drove to Doddabetta, which is the highest peak in the Nilgiri mountains. The view of the rolling hills from this place was stunning. I wanted to take a tumble in the green meadows like the romantic heroes of yore, but a stern look from my wife put me in my place. Our last stop was the pristine Pykara Lake, where we enjoyed a motorboat ride. The tall pine trees on the shores were lovely to behold.

Back in Kotagiri, we all gathered in one room to watch a World Cup cricket match. After a mouthwatering, spicy dinner and a last walk on the lawns, we crashed for the night.

A variety of kurinji flower in bloom atop Doddabetta in Udhagamandalam. | Photo Credit: SATHYAMOORTHY M

Next morning, it was time to return to Bengaluru. As we passed through Bandipur again, the silence, majesty, and depth of the forests reminded me of the importance of living in harmony with nature. In these times of global warming, ecological balance and environmental protection cannot just be fancy slogans. Evolution demands that we respect boundaries and grow together.

As we passed by the herds of deer, I felt as if they were entreating us not to encroach upon their space. I muttered a silent prayer for them and wished that all of us would let wild animals and nature thrive. For we will cease to exist if they do.

V. Gopinath is a Bengaluru-based retired senior executive of ITC.