Neighbours food

This cookbook is about a food culture that is best discussed in the chapters Cooking the Pakistani way and Culinary evolution.

Very many Pakistani visitors to India make a beeline for our vegetarian fare, while Indian visitors to Pakistan ask for Pakistani specialities. Even before Partition, Lahori food was distinct from Delhi or Lucknavi food, distinct but similar. We have a lot in common in food tastes, however. This book, written by a distinguished Pakistani journalist who is most knowledgeable about food, is a delight to read, quite apart from its excellent illustrations. Unlike some of the experts on food who have sprouted up in recent years to fool an ignorant public and avail of free hospitality, dropping names on the way, the authors equipment is solid and her style lucid.

One example will suffice. Kakori kebabs acquired a vogue in the last three decades, and our foodies, as they style themselves, all too readily provided various explanations of its origin. One of them takes the cake. It was a king or a nawab, depending on the writers fancy, with weak teeth who ordered his cook to minister to his special need. The author traces it to Nawab Syed Mohammad Haider Kazmi of Kakori, a hamlet near Lucknow. There are some distinctly Pakistani dishes which bid fair to find a place on Indian menus. High among the authors favourite Pakistani recipes is Chapli kebab, a Frontier speciality (see box for two such recipes).

The author generously provides recipes. But this is no mere cookbook. It is about a food culture that is best discussed in the chapters Cooking the Pakistani way and Culinary evolution. The cuisine of each province is described in detail. Karachi cuisine gets special mention. It is more akin to Delhi than to Bombay cuisine. Refugees from Delhi set up shops in the citys Burns Road. Recently, they replicated the establishments at Clifton near the sea. Hyderabadi cuisine has its own devotees. The author does not neglect Gujarati vegetarian food, nor the rich Goan food. And certainly not the humble but delectable street food.

Chapli Kebab Ingredients

Minced beef kg Coriander seeds (coarsely ground) 2 tbsp Whole red chillies 1-1/2 tbsp Pomegranate 1 tbsp Gram flour 2 tbsp Cumin 1 tsp Hot spices powder 1/2 tbsp Chopped onions 2 Eggs 3-4 Ground ginger tsp Ground garlic tsp Oil to fry Salt to taste

Method

Soak whole red chillies in water; remove seeds and grind coarsely. Mix well all ingredients with mince and keep aside for at least an hour. Shape into big round kebabs and fry on a tawa.

Burani Ingredients

Eggplant 1 large Onions 2 large Tomatoes 2 large Yogurt kg Garlic 5-6 cloves Oil 1/8 cup Crushed garlic tsp Salt and pepper to taste

Method

Soak eggplant; cut into thick rounds and fry till light brown. Fry onions till brown, and dice tomatoes. Blend onions, tomatoes, and garlic together. Fry the masala [the spice paste] in oil and sprinkle salt and pepper on it. When masala is well bhoonoed [fried until oil separates], add eggplants. Mash and keep on dum [low flame] for a few minutes, constantly stirring. Remove from flame.

Beat yogurt with some salt and crushed garlic. Just before serving, place yogurt in a deep dish and pour the eggplant mixture in the centre.