A walk in the clouds

Mount Jomolhar, the highest peak in Bhutan.-SUSHANTA PATRONOBISH

Bhutan is emerging as a major international tourist destination.

Until 1974, Bhutan was shrouded in mystery and myths. For long the tiny Himalayan Kingdom lay ensconced within the folds of the mountains surrounding it, inaccessible to the rest of the world, and proudly clinging to its heritage and culture. The land is perhaps the last bastion of the Vajrayana school of Mahayana Buddhism and that provides a unique identity to the 6.7 lakh people of the country.

When the Fourth King Jigme Singye Wangchuk ascended the throne in 1972 (he was formally crowned in 1974), he took up the process of modernisation which his father, the Third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, had initiated before his untimely death. And Bhutan gradually began to open itself up to the rest of the world. The country opened up to tourism in 1974, with the government following a cautious policy of avoiding the negative impacts that mass tourism can have on such a small country.

As in all the other fields of development, in tourism too, the governments policy was to follow a middle path, not once veering from its vision of sustainable living as encapsulated in the Fourth Kings concept of Gross National Happiness. It is a unique blend of the old and new, as the country slowly opened up to the modern world in a fine balance with its ancient traditions.

Today tourism is the second-highest revenue earner for Bhutan after hydropower and one of the largest generators of foreign exchange for the countrys small economy. The number of tourists visiting Bhutan has increased from 9,249 in 2004 to over 21,000 in 2007. For 2008, tourist inflow is projected at 30,000.

Apart from the unique cultural experience that its isolated growth offers to visitors through its festivals, architecture and the peoples attire, costumes, and so on Bhutan is possibly one of the best examples in the world of sustainable ecotourism. With 72 per cent of the country under forest cover, Bhutan is home to rare and endangered flora and fauna. While the destruction of forests and loss of habitat have severely reduced wildlife population in many other parts of the Himalayas, Bhutan harbours many endangered species thanks to the intact forests. It is also because this small country stretches from the subtropics in the south to the perennially frozen regions of the Himalayas in the north. Bhutan has 770 species of birds (15 of them globally threatened), 165 mammals (among them 24 internationally protected wild animal species) and 5,500 species of vascular plants (among them 152 medicinal plants).

In fact, Article 5 of the Draft Constitution states, The Government shall ensure that, in order to conserve the countrys natural resources and to prevent degradation of the ecosystem, a minimum of 60 per cent of Bhutans total land shall be maintained under forest cover for all time. Bhutan is also a trekkers paradise. Besides the popular and beautiful Jhomolhari trek, Bhutan has Druk Path, Lingshi-Laya-Gasa, Dagala, Gangkar Punsum, Masagang and Bumthang-Lhuntse. High-altitude trekking is restricted to spring and fall seasons because of the possibility of snowfall in the high passes. The countrys Himalayan ranges include 20 unclimbed peaks, each over 7,000 metres high. Mountaineering was introduced in 1983, but was closed in 1994 when the people petitioned the government to preserve the sanctity of the mountains.

For years, the Department of Tourism under the Royal Government of Bhutan guided, monitored and regulated the industry. The department has been replaced by the Tourism Council of Bhutan, an autonomous body, headed by the newly elected Prime Minister. However, the change in the political system does not mean any drastic change in its tourism policy. Our mission remains the same, guided by the principles of Gross National Happiness, as established by His Majesty the Fourth King, a senior official in the council told Frontline.

There are more than 200 licensed guides and over 200 tour operators in Bhutan. Along with the employees of the national airline Drukair, the Tourism department employs more than 3,000 people directly and many more indirectly.

The Bhutan Tourism Corporation Ltd (BTCL) is the new name of the Bhutan Tourism Corporation after its privatisation. It was established in 1974, practically since the inception of the tourism industry in Bhutan, and has emerged as one of the leading destination management companies in the country. It enjoys a high reputation for providing reliable, personalised and professional services. The companys comprehensive portfolio includes inbound tours, trekking, special interest tours, management of hotels, lodges, cafeterias, camping sites and an efficient transport fleet.

Among the BTCLs numerous hotels and accommodations, the three that stand out are Hotel Olathang, Hotel Phuntsho Pelri, and Hotel Wangdichholing. Olathang was established in 1974 to accommodate guests invited to attend the coronation of the Fourth King Jigme Singye Wangchuk. Located in Paro, it is one of Bhutans largest hotels, sprawling over 28 acres of blue pine forest on a hilltop overlooking the Paro valley. The Fourth King himself once stayed in one of the luxury cottages inside the estate, which has since been renamed the Royal Cottage.

We are the largest tourism agency in the country, and what we believe in is not so much promotion, but consolidation. Our priority is to keep our house clean and ensure we remain the best, Thinley W Dorji, managing director, BTCL told Frontline.

The BTCL is now trying to encourage off-season tourism. With a lot of campaigning through our agents, we are now getting off-season tourists. But there is scope for a lot more, said Dorji. It is not just foreign tourists from far-off places that the BTCL is looking at; it is aware of the huge tourist market in India and wants a bite of it. We cannot just rely on international tourists. We want to fill up our hotel rooms with our Indian friends. In fact, this year, BTCLs entire focus will be on tapping the Indian market. Hopefully by next year we will see some results, said Dorji. In the heart of Thimphu stands Hotel Pedling. Of the innumerable hotels and lodges scattered all over Bhutan, Pedling is one of the most popular in the city for international tourists. Complete with luxurious rooms and a kitchen whose menu offers imaginative, international cuisine, complemented by traditional Bhutanese food, Pedling also provides miscellaneous facilities such as a fully equipped conference centre, secure parking lots, bus and car rental services and the Internet. It is owned by a revered Buddhist Lama, Gangtey Trulku, and all proceeds from the hotel go to meet the daily expenses of nunneries and religious institutions all over the country.Another hotel gaining enormous popularity in Bhutan is the Taj Tashi.

It reflects Bhutans rich heritage and architecture. Its balance of traditional Bhutanese design with contemporary elegance is subtly brought to focus by hand-painted details. Inspired by Bhutanese Dzong architecture, the hotel was built on three themes Dhungs (long horn), Double Dorjes and Clouds and crafted by artisans from the famed Zorig Chusum School of Arts and Crafts.

Each of the 66 guest rooms and suites of the hotel are woven around a Bhutanese theme with hand-painted flourish and lavished with natural wood, marbles and bright carpets. The deluxe rooms offer spacious accommodation with a view of the surrounding mountains. The bathrooms have the finest amenities, complete with floor warmers and bath towel heaters. There are also luxury rooms, deluxe suites, duplex suites and luxury suites. The hotel has a speciality Bhutanese restaurant called Chig-je-gye, an all-day dining facility called Thongsel, a contemporary bar and a tea lounge.